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Diagnosing faulty kitchen appliances

April 11, 2020 by

Questions › Diagnosing faulty kitchen appliances
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Garmaine asked 3 years ago

I have a waffle iron that trips the breaker after I've made a couple of waffles.

I'm fairly sure that I don't have a problem with the kitchen wiring, because I can run a kettle that's rated at 3000W, and that doesn't trip the breaker. The waffle iron claims to draw 750-1000W.

Except that the toaster started also tripping the breaker if we use the two right-hand slots. I'm hoping it was a coincidence.

I'm in the UK. The kitchen sockets are on a 32A breaker. The oven is on its own 40A breaker.

Note that it actually trips out half of the house (63A RCD), which I'm hoping is caused by the aggregate load on that half of the consumer unit.

Breaker box

Pictured: The consumer unit.

I'm talking about the left-hand side of the consumer unit: Shower/Cooker/Sockets (G)/Sockets (K)/Sockets (1st)/RCD.

Here's a close-up of the breaker and RCD:

Close-up

The breaker is a British General CUMB32; the RCD is a BG CUR6330.

So: how can I figure out whether the waffle iron and the toaster are faulty? If they are, this will obviously be cheaper and more convenient to resolve than calling out an electrician.

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Original Question and Possible Answers can be found on `http://diy.stackexchange.com`

Question Tags: electrical, electrical-panel, uk

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